Same handle or fastening as on my Prym Alegra, but in green …
You can make your own bag in such type of fastening on different ways. You work with fabric, cotton or silk or linen, knit-work or crochet-piece, or whatever: the method to insert is identical.
Create one that is very rounded and spherical like a ball
or very flat to be a clutch.
The fastening might be rectangular, half circle, or curved, it’s always the same ‘construction’.
How to make a spherical rounded one.
If you start with a round circle as base or bottom, or an oval or rectangle or square, try to make this base with a perimeter or outline ± the same size as your fastening when it is totally opened (like this) :
Once your base is done, you can make the tube which will become the front and back side – made in one piece or two squares or rectangles or any form assembled - in the fabric you want: cotton, silk, knitted or crochet or … and sew this tube to the bottom. When I crochet, I go on from bottom without cutting my yarn and make the tube seamless by hooking in round onto my base of the bag (I don’t like seams J).
At the end it still needs to fit the size of the fastening!
The height depends on what you want to obtain and how much stuff you need to keep in J
How to make a flattered one.
In this case you’ll have to make front and back with separated tops: no tube closed on top edge, but a top based on the shape of your fastening – take paper, put your fastening on it, and mark round the outline and add seam allowance if you work with fabrics. Crochet or knit works don’t need a hem. See example on the paper (normally with every handle should be delivered a pattern, but it’s as you see, very easy to make one by yourself.
If you want a little roundness for your bag, you can add some folds and wrinkles but here your final pattern and upper-line will have to fit in the fastening. If you don’t like folds and you want some extra width in your bag, you can adapt the sides by making these slightly larger.
In clear language I mean this …
Example with a design of a rectangular fastening: I’ve put the letters A-B-C-D on the important points of it = the lines of sewing, where you’ll fix the fabric to the fastening.
You see on this pic a few ways of designing the top of your bag.
You go for (top right) a spherical rounded bag, (bottom right) a flat clutch; and (bottom left) an intermediate between those two.
Note that if you make the width ‘B-C’ wider and longer, the insert in the fastening has to be done by folding or wrinkling the fabric, which gives you also more space in your bag.
The part of your bag beneath the “line A-D” (imagine it, it’s not designed on the pic) is also adaptable to any pattern, model or size. You can go straight (like bottom left) or a little wider (like bottom right). Anyhow, the possibilities are endless, but always, always keep in mind, that your top edge of the bag must have at least the circumference of your fastening wide open.
As I mentioned, there are many metallic fastenings, different sizes, and different models.
But mainly you can categorize them in two types.
There is a type that has little holes all around and where you can sew through. They are also made onto the sides of the top of your bag (the small parts A-B en C-D),
and the other type you easily find, is the one where you sew only from B to C to attach your bag on the fastening and where the edge of your fabric is not sewn to A-B and C-D. This means that you must have a beautiful finish of your bag!
Both types of fastening works for the three possibilities of the format like described here above: from the rounded bag to the flat clutch It’ll work!
here a picture of those two different types of fastening.
If you have a lining for your bag, then it has to be sewn and attached to the top edge of the outside of your bag. Don’t try to put them unsewn-together in the fastening, it’s difficult to hold both layers correctly between the gasp and to have a nice finish.
To sew the bag(with lining) to the fastening, I find it easier to start in the middle of the space between B and C, then go to left till end of holes, come back for a second stitch over the ones you just made and go to the other end of the fastening and then return to the middle. This way you’ll have two stitches in every hole to keep your bag fastened, and even if one thread would break at usury, your bag will still keep together. I put a safety pin through all layers and hole at a few points while sewing.
For the bags sewn in the type of fastening like the bottom one on the picture above, you still need to take the perimeter of the opened fastening, even if you don’t sew the sides. For those types I noticed that the bag holds perfectly its model if you make a little stitch onto the middle of the top sides. This way the bag closes nicely, and when closed you’ll have a beautiful curve on the sides.
I make my stitches onto the fastening not only sideways, but also vertically (I like to use a cotton embroidery thread, because they are strong and I like to add some colors…) – do not hesitate to try out some designs as long as you use all the little holes for stitching, it’ll keep it all together.
So this was a little general stuff,
now the explanation of my little green bag. J
I started with a round flat bottom, a crochet circle in spiral (but you can do it in rounds), all single crochet stitch. For round and spiral circle you’ll have to increase when necessary to keep your hooked circle flat. I don’t calculate; I work instinctively. But if you need a guideline to make a perfect flat bottom in crochet, here are two links: pinterest one (click) & pinterest two (click)
Then you go straight upwards, to make the long tube (all seamless). Place the body of your bag by flattening it on the table and then measure in the middle to control the height. This one is much bigger than my little ‘Selena’ I made (click here)
I made it with single crochet stitch (hook under the two loops of the stich of the row below). But feel free to make any stitch you like.
When I had the height I desired, I noticed that it was a little too large to fit in the fastening. Do I stress and rip off? No, I simply adapt the size!
And as I didn’t wanted folds on the front or back; I made some decreases in the last rows. I did those on the two opposite sides of the bag.
for this: fold your tube in two, place a place marker in the center stitch on both sides, and decrease before and just after that middle-marked-stitch. If you don’t want to see or notice the decrease in your work, make an invisible one:
go with the hook into the front loop of the two following stitches and make your single crochet (or another stitch if you work in another design) and just pick through the two front loops!
That’s what I find the cleanest decrease in crochet J see the result hereunder
I did so for four rows and measured again to see if it fits now,
and yes, look at pic: left is before and you see it’s too wide, right picture shows it after decreasing, and that’s how it has to be.
Then it was time to add some adornments: beads, buttons, and a little crochet flower. I’m pretty sure you’ll find on the net a variety of flowers or other decor-elements. Be creative! The buttons “tell” that it’s Handmade.
So far so good; now is the moment I can add the lining. I sewed a tube like the bag in crochet and took it on the largest size of my crochet-work plus a bottom circle (identical size as crochet circle plus seam allowance).
Sew those two pieces together. I made some small ‘wrinkles’ on top of lining on left and right side, just as my decreases in crochet.
Then a few stitches through the upper edge to keep all together and finally put the lined bag into the small gasp of the fastening, well centered, and make some stitches from the center to outwards: I made vertical and horizontal ones with perlé cotton n°8 (which I used also in my flower and to fix the beads).
Close up to the stitches on fastening
Et voilà ! Another little bag in my collection
A woman never has too much of it, don’t you think????
Have a nice week!